Macedonian Madness

If you’re looking for a place to boggle the mind, head to Skopje, Macedonia. 

Bridge to Parliament, statues everywhere

The most notable feature of the city from a tourist perspective: its statues.  If you think that there are too many statues in Paris or Rome, you have no idea what “too many statues” looks like.

These small memorials around the city mark the day of the deadly earthquake in 1963

Recently, in attempts to boost tourism and give the city a much needed facelift, the Macedonian government poured millions of euros into this "monumental appearance" effort (I didn't make this up...).   Some of the recent additions look like they were DIY projects created by children, and others are ornate statues you would expect to see in the Louvre.  The project is focused on creating new roads, concert venues, and buildings, as well.  Sadly, most of the project's attention has remained focused on the city's new stone citizens.

Look closely - those aren't all lampposts, they are more statues

While I was in Skopje I went on the city’s Free Walking Tour.  Our eclectic guide showed us the statue of his great-grandfather who was a local, not quite famous, author.  Other statues lining the streets are in honor of citizens ranging from local politicians to church benefactors.  These aren’t the “big bucks” benefactors either, just the ones who dropped a few coins in the donation basket on Sunday…one time…a few years ago.  He wasn't laughing as he told us that all you have to do to become a Macedonian statue is live in Skopje for a few months. 

Tour guide and his relative's statue

Behind the endless stone faces who stare (or glare) at you as you meander through the city, there is an interesting culture.   To me, it was not exactly the “Eastern versus Western” convergence that is present in its neighbors' cultures, but rather a very curious “Past versus Progression” juxtaposition.  It is an extremely rich country in terms of history and natural landscapes, but hopelessly impoverished and corrupt, economically and politically speaking. 

Locals fishing in the river behind a 250,000€ art piece entitled "Hope"

When I was walking through the city one morning, I had to actively dodge a group of Roma children huffing bags of glue and fighting one another quite aggressively.  These group members, both giving and receiving the pounding, included little girls.  All of them were dirty and obviously high, and it seemed they were homeless, without a monitor, and not quite participating in activities that usually lend to a bright future. 

I was not completely confident that I wouldn’t be robbed by the little gang, despite my size and the fact that it was in the bright daylight.  I kept my head down as they shouted at me and begged me for change with the hands that weren’t tightly gripping their bags of glue.  I shoved my hands deeper in my pockets as I walked past them briskly.  I felt helpless and confused, but more frightened for myself than eager to help them.  I don’t think I was making Mother Theresa particularly proud with my complete indifference to assisting the less fortunate. 

Inside a local Orthodox church

That is another Macedonian “Fun Fact”, and one that is much happier than homeless Romani children beating each other.  Mother Theresa was born and raised in Skopje, Macedonia.  We visited the cathedral-turned-museum that boasts a collection of her habit, journals and letters of correspondence, and even her original Nobel Peace Prize.  It was a very cool surprise, especially since I had always incorrectly associated her origin with her later works in India.  

Mother Theresa's birthplace and home site before the earthquake

It’s interesting to think that Mother Theresa left her hometown where there is so much blatant poverty (but don’t worry they have statues!) to devote herself to those less fortunate in India.  After she left at the age of 18, she only returned to Skopje four times during the remainder of her life.

Mother Theresa Museum

During another afternoon, I visited the Skopje Fortress surrounding the city with two Peace Corps Volunteers, Ansley and Kris, who were taking a few days off of their projects in northern Albania.  We had a great discussion about their PCV experience and time in Albania so far, obviously including both positive and negative aspects.  

One of the other discussion points during our time together included the recent Serbian-Albanian football debacle.  I think this is a perfect example of the region’s history, both past and recent.   How did this happen?!  Well, it all depends on who you ask…

While in Skopje, I stayed at Urban Hostel and, very shockingly, met a fellow Georgia Tech Yellow Jacket who was studying in France for the fall semester on my last night.  We had dinner together at a delicious Macedonian restaurant near our hostel and laughed at the odds of our chance interaction.  It was a great way to end my time in the very curious, but interesting, city of Skopje.